Even for an advanced sewer, sewing a hoodie is kind of intimidating. It's not overly complicated, but there are many steps, many pieces and, of course, there's all the hardware.
But fear not! You can definitely pull this off; our step-by-step guide will get you there.
Super Comfy Full-Zip Hoodie
Size: Cut to fit
What You Need
- Sol Hoodie from Jamie Christina pattern
- A ball point or stretch needle that matches the content and weight of your fabric
- A cord for the hood (We picked a synthetic black one)
- Twill tape for the neckline (Optional, but it's used to hide the neckline seam)
- A zipper
- Something to put at the end of your pull cord and eyelets for the holes (Optional)
1. Select Your Fabric
We decided to work with a fleece-back, medium-weight Merino wool, which is slightly nicer than your average hoodie made out of polyester or cotton. With this pattern, you have the option to sew the front band in a contrasting fabric or with a decorative ribbon. We sewed it all in the same fabric, but feel free to go wild!
2. Print and Cut Your Pattern Pieces
Download and print the pieces, then cut out the size that fits you best before cutting out all the pieces in your fabric of choice.
3. Prepare and Sew the Pockets (Optional)
This pattern has patch pockets in front, but they're entire optional. So if you don't want them, skip ahead to step 4. Otherwise, fold the inner edge of the pocket, right sides together. Sew along the top and bottom edges.
Turn the pockets right-side out and press the fold at the opening. Also press the top edge and front edge that fold along with the seam allowance.
Topstitch the flap along the opening and press again.
Place the pockets on the front hoodie pieces, lining up the edges. Along the top and side edges, edge stitch in place. Along the center front and bottom edges, secure with a baste stitch.
4. Sew the Shoulder Seams
Place the front pieces on top of the back piece, right sides together. Stitch along the shoulder seams. Press seam allowance after sewing.
5. Sew the Sleeves
Open up the hoodie with the right side up. Place one sleeve on top of the hoodie with the notches lined up. Stitch in place, then press the seam allowance toward the sleeve. Repeat on the other side so both sleeves are sewn.
6. Sew the Side Seams
Lay the hoodie in place, arranging it as it will look when finished, but with the wrong side out. Pin along the side seams from the sleeve hem to the bottom hem. Sew both side seams, then press the seam.
7. Sew and Attach the Cuffs
For the cuffs, fold the pieces in half, right sides together. Sew along the opposite edge. Fold the cuff in half, wrong sides together, and press the fold.
To attach the cuffs to the sleeves, divide the cuffs and the sleeve openings into four equal parts. Start at the side seams in each piece, and find the spot opposite the seam. Then divide those two sections in half for four sections. Repeat this on the sleeve opening.
Pin the cuffs to the sleeves with the raw edges flush. Match each of the four sections, stretching the cuff where needed to fit.
Stitch the cuffs to the sleeves, then press the seam allowance around the opening.
8. Attach the Hem Band
Pin the hem band to the bottom of the hoodie, matching up notches. Pin and sew in place, then press the seam allowance down toward the hem.
9. Attach the Front Bands
Pin the front bands to the front of the hoodie, matching up the markings from the pattern. Pin the right side of the band to the right side of the hoodie. Note that the band will extend below the front of the hoodie. Sew the bands in place along the inside edge.
Fold the bands to the front and press. Edge stitch along the previously sewn seam. Baste the band along the front edge to hold it in place. Fold the bottom edge up to the inside of the hoodie and edge stitch in place.
10. Add the Zipper
If your zipper is too long for the hoodie, remove teeth from the top edge by pulling them off with pliers. (Be careful not to damage the zipper tape, which will be visible.) Make sure your pull is below the area where you're working, and do not slide it up until you're done. Otherwise you will pull it right off the zipper!
Pin the zipper in place on either side of the front opening. Place the zipper tape flush with the opening and the bottom stopper flush with the bottom band. The teeth at the top should start at the ½in seam allowance mark.
Using your zipper foot, sew along the zipper, securing it to the opening. Repeat on the opposite side.
Flip the zipper tape and seam allowance to the inside of the hoodie and press. Be careful — the teeth will be hot!
Stitch along the zipper again, sewing the tape and seam allowance to the inside of the hoodie. The teeth should now be facing the center of the opening.
11. Sew the Hood and Hood Bands
Place the right sides of the hood together and sew along the curved edge. Press the seam allowance.
Sew the hood band pieces together, right sides facing, along the short end. Press the seam allowance.
Create a buttonhole or install an eyelet at the spot on the pattern piece. Be sure to practice this on a scrap first! This fabric is soft and does not take to eyelets well so we opted to sew a simple buttonhole.
Repeat on the opposite side of the band, so you have either two eyelets or two buttonholes. This is where you'll place the drawstring for the hood.
Just like we did on the front of the hoodie, pin the band to the hood with right sides facing. Sew in place along the edge closest to the opening.
Press the band toward the opening. Use a tailor's ham for pressing curved edges.
Pin the band in place, then topstitch to secure. The stitching on the band of the hood should match the band on the hoodie front (as pictured below).
12. Attach the Hood
Pin the hood to the hoodie along the neckline. Sew along this seam, making sure to not sew over any teeth on the front zipper.
Place your twill tape along the neckline, placing one edge flush up against the stitching from the previous step. Stitch in place near that edge. Make sure to leave about 1-inch extra twill tape on either side.
Trim away the seam allowance so the width of the twill tape will cover it.
Press the twill tape down toward the hoodie, covering up the seam allowance in the process.
At the center front sides, fold the excess twill tape under, hiding the edges of the seam. Pin in place, then stitch to the hoodie along the bottom edge. Be careful not to form any pinches on the right side of the hoodie.
13. Insert the Cording
Attach your cording to a bodkin or a large safety pin. Insert it into the opening on one side of the hood.
Feed it all the way around the hood until it comes out the other side.
Once you've decided how long you want the cord to be, trim the end. Slide any optional hardware and knot the cording. If your cording is synthetic, you'll want to melt the ends with a lighter to prevent the cord from unraveling. (Be very careful and only do this in a well-ventilated area.) Then, slide your hardware into place.
And that's it!
People will be amazed to find out you sewed this yourself, so don't be shy about telling them. You deserve ALL the praise.