How many times have you begun sewing a seam on your machine using sheer or very lightweight fabric and before you even get started, the fabric sinks into the needle plate? The threads knot up and in many cases, the machine locks up. Or, when you try to sew a super thick layer of fabric? The presser foot tilts upward and your machine can’t quite get past that hump of fabric. Frustration sets in and it seems you’re doomed, literally, before you’ve begun.
OK, so I’m exaggerating just a bit, but the fact remains that these issues are real.
Starting a seam in very thin or very thick fabric can be problematic. So, what’s a sewist to do? Consider using a stitch starter.
I keep one handy at my sewing station at all times to prevent these kinds of issues from arising altogether.
What’s a stitch starter, you ask?
It’s a small scrap of fabric a few inches by a few inches in size that's a few layers thicker than the sheer fabric you are working with, or about the same degree of thickness as the bulkier fabric you want to stitch.
The stitch starter helps create a smooth and easy transition from starter to the real fabric. Think of it as a sewing running board. When using it for sewing sheer fabrics, you begin the stitching somewhere in the middle of the stitch starter. This way, there is no issue with the fabric sinking into the needle plate.
Here's how to use it:
As the machine gets closer to the end of the starter, simply slip the real fabric under the presser foot to meet up with the starter. Keep sewing right onto your project.
The starter keeps the presser foot in balance and reduces the pressure on the project fabric, thus reducing the tendency for it to sink into the needle plate. At 1/4" to 3/8" into the seam, backstitch one or two stitches to lock the seam.
When your seam is complete, simply snip the threads to disconnect the stitch starter from the project.
The stitch starter, when used on very thick fabric, essentially raises the back of the presser foot so it is level with the "hump’"of thick fabric. This, in essence, eliminates any obstruction that could impede or block the stitching.
Again, start the stitching somewhere in the middle of the stitch starter so the pressure foot remains horizontal. Continue stitching and transition to the project fabric.
When the seam is complete, once again, simply disconnect the starter from the project.
While sewing can sometimes have its frustrating moments, there is always an easy solution to almost every dilemma.