Our favorite kind of sweater is the kind you never want to take off. That's why the Tealeaf is a must make — the shape is easy to wear, but the details make it special. Think lace, pockets, shoulder saddles, and more. The best part? Designer Bristol Ivy will walk you through every stitch. We've broken this sweater down week by week, to help you get a finished sweater in just six weeks, but feel free to knit at your own speed — either way, we're here for you.
Sizes: Includes instructions for 8 sizes
What You Need
- PDF Pattern (available when you start your free trial )
- Cloudborn Superwash Merino Twist (see pattern for quantities)
- US 7 (4.5 mm) 32" (80 cm) circular needle and dpns for st st; or size needed to obtain gauge
- US 4 (3.5 mm) 32" (80 cm) circular needle and dpns for lace; or size needed to obtain gauge
- US 5 (3.75 mm) 32" (80 cm) circular needle and dpns for ribbing; or size needed to obtain gauge
- Stitch markers (to mark lace repeats)
- Locking stitch markers (for Japanese short rows)
- Stitch holders or waste yarn
If you prefer knitting small circumferences with magic loop, you won't need the DPNs!
Shop the Kit
- 19½ sts and 29 rows/rnds = 4 inches in st st on largest needle, after blocking
- 19½ sts and 32 rows/rnds = 4 inches in lace on smallest needle, after blocking
Instead of knitting a separate gauge swatch in stockinette stitch, just cast on one of your pocket linings and use that as your swatch!
- Finished bust measurements: 43½ (47½, 52½, 56½, 60½, 63, 68, 72) inches
- Choose a finished measurement that is about 13½ inches larger than your actual bust measurement — this will give you the intended amount of positive ease.
Gauge Swatches and Getting Started
1. Knit your lace gauge swatch and your first pocket (this serves as your stockinette swatch). Block both swatches and measure your gauge. Make any needed adjustments.
2. Cast on for your sweater following your pattern instructions, and work the bottom lace section, using either the written or charted directions.
You’re going to be casting on a LOT of stitches: use two balls of yarn with your long tail cast on, and you won’t have to worry about running out of yarn!
Add in Your Pockets and Knit the Body
3. Following your pattern instructions, knit the ribbing sections where your pockets will be inserted, then bind off for the pocket openings and knit in your linings.
4. You’re now done knitting the bottom lace section. Work in stockinette stitch until your sweater is the length called for in the pattern, then split for the underarms, and continue to work your left front, right front and back sections as described.
Shape the Shoulders
5. Starting with the left front, work the shoulder shaping using Japanese short rows as outlined in your pattern. Continue shaping the shoulders by working the right front and the back.
Good to Know
Japanese short rows work really well here, but you can use any type of short row.
Join with Shoulder Saddles
6. Slip your held right front stitches onto the working needle and cast on your stitches for the saddle, as explained in your pattern. Keeping the saddle stitches in the lace pattern, join the stitches at each end to the front and back of the sweater. Repeat this process on the left shoulder saddle.
Knit the Sleeves
7. Pick up the stitches around your armholes, keeping your held saddle stitches in pattern. Knit the sleeves as the pattern outlines, decreasing to the cuffs. Finish with the SSK bind-off.
8. Pickup the stitches for your neckband and knit the neckband in the lace pattern. Bind of the with the SSK bind off to keep the edge stretchy.
9. Weave in your ends, and block the sweater to your finished measurements. Let the sweater dry completely.
10. Whipstitch the pocket linings in place, then steam block the pocket seams.