Fitting can be a challenge for even the most seasoned garment sewers. But that's where a moulage, or "mold," fitting system comes in. It was developed and used in couture houses to reduce client fitting times, yet home sewers can use the technique to draft personal slopers for a blouse, dress, jacket or an overcoat.
When fitting a sewing pattern, you typically check standard measurements such as the bust, waist and hip — all measurements of circumference. But there's another that's critical to getting the perfect fit: vertical dimension. This measurement isn't usually marked on most patterns, but you should measure and adjust your patterns for it (in both dimensions, actually) to get the fit you need — especially if you're plus-size or full-busted.
Getting the fit just right is one of the most challenging parts of sewing clothes, mostly because the process isn't a singular step. Rather, it begins before the first pattern piece is even cut, and continues throughout your sewing.
If you love sewing your own clothes, you've probably come across a princess seam. The seams are common design lines on many tops, dresses and jackets. Their slimming effect is flattering on almost any figure, but for them to look just right they need to fit your body properly — which means they need to follow the natural curves of the bust line.
If you find that some patterns are a tad too snug in the sleeves, don’t blame your arms — they’re just fine! The problem is the pattern. Commercial patterns are designed to fit average proportions. And not everyone is average, or wants to be. Fortunately, reworking the upper arm of a pattern to fit your dimensions is a quick and easy fix.
When it comes to pants, fit is everything. Even getting it slightly off can make the difference between a pair you wear all the time and one that lives in the drawer, causing a pang of regret every time you glance at it.
Positive ease: Sounds like a meditation app, but it's more like a top contender for Best Knitting Term Ever. If you knit, you'll need a solid grasp of positive ease if you want to nail the right fit for your garments. Once you knit up a piece, there's usually no going back (unless you rip it out, of course) so it definitely pays to know all about how fit works before you even get started.
For most of us, sewing pants that fit is like trying to solve a tricky geometry problem. Getting the fit just right is super challenging even if you aced high-school math.