Jackets
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Discover the secrets to using a with-nap layout to cut out your jacket pieces. After that, assemble the lining to install later.
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Shoulder pads add structure to the jacket so it hangs properly on the body. See how to place them and trim the shoulder edges to match. Then hand-baste the sleeves into position, stitch the sleeves into place, and make and install flannel sleeve heads.
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Ready to make a gorgeous jacket tailored with ready-to-wear techniques? Begin as Kenneth discusses velveteen, lining and piping fabrics as well as interfacings and support fabrics. Then find out how to make modifications to your base pattern.
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Watch as Kenneth demonstrates his method for drafting pattern pieces for a full lining and support elements, including a back stay. This will add structure to your jacket and ensure it's as beautiful inside as it is outside.
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Frame the body canvas pieces with muslin using Kenneth's smart method. After that, carefully install it by sewing the neck darts in the canvas supports with an eye to reduce bulk.
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Use fusible stay tape to stabilize the shoulders and armhole curves of the jacket body. You'll also use fusible interfacing to add body to the hem allowances and sleeves. Then construct patch pockets and stitch by hand to keep your velveteen unmarred.
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Build your tailoring skills by using silk or rayon thread to baste the framed body canvas pieces in place. Then install tape at the jacket roll line. You'll learn steaming and pressing techniques to shape these pieces, and finish with stay-stitching at the neck seam corner.
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You're almost done! Start installing by joining the lining hem to the jacket using Kenneth's go-to stitch. Continue installing and basting the lining, and hand sew to finish. Finally, get tips for buttonholes and a final press to complete your blazer.
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Install the facing using a combination of hand basting and machine stitching, and Kenneth's unique method for setting corner seams. From there, you'll clip curves, grade seam allowances and press. Finish by hand as you tailor-baste the layers into position.
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Construct the sleeves and finish the lower edges of your jacket. Kenneth shows you how to machine-stitch ease into the sleeve cap with buttonhole thread in the bobbin. After that, you'll construct the lapel/collar facing.
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