Patternmaking
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Ruching is when fabric is gathered along a seam to provide decoration or fullness. You may have seen it before on sheers (like in the skirt pictured above) or swimsuits, but there are so many opportunities for ruching in patternmaking. The technique looks particularly great on a fitted garment, where it accentuates your body's curves.
Maris Olsen
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Fitting can be a challenge for even the most seasoned garment sewers. But that's where a moulage, or "mold," fitting system comes in. It was developed and used in couture houses to reduce client fitting times, yet home sewers can use the technique to draft personal slopers for a blouse, dress, jacket or an overcoat.
Maris Olsen
Sew
If you're under 5'4", you're considered a size petite by the fashion industry — as well as the pattern companies industry. And when you're searching for a pattern, you want one that helps you look taller and gives great proportions to flatter your shape. Keep these tips in mind while you're browsing to help you find the perfect pattern for your next garment.
Pauline Alice
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Blazers are a wardrobe staple that will never go out of style. Learn to create a sleek velveteen blazer alongside sewing and tailoring expert Kenneth D. King. With patch pockets, a shawl collar and lining with piping, this modern design is perfect for adventurous sewists who have some experience sewing jackets. (Pattern sold separately.)
Kenneth D. King
Kenneth D. King
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Construct the sleeves and finish the lower edges of your jacket. Kenneth shows you how to machine-stitch ease into the sleeve cap with buttonhole thread in the bobbin. After that, you'll construct the lapel/collar facing.
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Install the facing using a combination of hand basting and machine stitching, and Kenneth's unique method for setting corner seams. From there, you'll clip curves, grade seam allowances and press. Finish by hand as you tailor-baste the layers into position.
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Frame the body canvas pieces with muslin using Kenneth's smart method. After that, carefully install it by sewing the neck darts in the canvas supports with an eye to reduce bulk.
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Build your tailoring skills by using silk or rayon thread to baste the framed body canvas pieces in place. Then install tape at the jacket roll line. You'll learn steaming and pressing techniques to shape these pieces, and finish with stay-stitching at the neck seam corner.
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Ready to make a gorgeous jacket tailored with ready-to-wear techniques? Begin as Kenneth discusses velveteen, lining and piping fabrics as well as interfacings and support fabrics. Then find out how to make modifications to your base pattern.
Sew
Watch as Kenneth demonstrates his method for drafting pattern pieces for a full lining and support elements, including a back stay. This will add structure to your jacket and ensure it's as beautiful inside as it is outside.
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