Ruching is when fabric is gathered along a seam to provide decoration or fullness. You may have seen it before on sheers (like in the skirt pictured above) or swimsuits, but there are so many opportunities for ruching in patternmaking. The technique looks particularly great on a fitted garment, where it accentuates your body's curves.
Fitting can be a challenge for even the most seasoned garment sewers. But that's where a moulage, or "mold," fitting system comes in. It was developed and used in couture houses to reduce client fitting times, yet home sewers can use the technique to draft personal slopers for a blouse, dress, jacket or an overcoat.
If you're under 5'4", you're considered a size petite by the fashion industry — as well as the pattern companies industry. And when you're searching for a pattern, you want one that helps you look taller and gives great proportions to flatter your shape. Keep these tips in mind while you're browsing to help you find the perfect pattern for your next garment.
Blazers are a wardrobe staple that will never go out of style. Learn to create a sleek velveteen blazer alongside sewing and tailoring expert Kenneth D. King. With patch pockets, a shawl collar and lining with piping, this modern design is perfect for adventurous sewists who have some experience sewing jackets. (Pattern sold separately.)
Install the facing using a combination of hand basting and machine stitching, and Kenneth's unique method for setting corner seams. From there, you'll clip curves, grade seam allowances and press. Finish by hand as you tailor-baste the layers into position.
Build your tailoring skills by using silk or rayon thread to baste the framed body canvas pieces in place. Then install tape at the jacket roll line. You'll learn steaming and pressing techniques to shape these pieces, and finish with stay-stitching at the neck seam corner.