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Create Any Size: Pattern Grading for Sewers

2h 58min intermediate Resources

Grade patterns to create the perfect size for you. Learn two simple, accurate methods of hand grading and ensure that no pattern is off limits!

Episode descriptions

Introduction to Grading
1 . Episode: Introduction to Grading
16min

Meet your instructor, Kathleen Cheetham, and learn more about the practice and purpose of pattern grading. Kathleen discusses the tools you'll need and explains how pattern grading can benefit you as a pattern maker or home sewer.

Multi-Size Pattern: Grading Down
2 . Episode: Multi-Size Pattern: Grading Down
31min

If you found a multi-sized pattern you like, but its smallest size is still too large, you can grade it down one or two sizes using tools as simple as a business card, straight edge and French curve. Kathleen walks you through the process of grading down a bodice by one size, both back and front. You'll see how to tackle tricky points like the armscye and neckline, and how to grade down notches, tucks and darts.

Multi-Size Pattern: Grading Up
3 . Episode: Multi-Size Pattern: Grading Up
22min

The same principles for grading down a size can be used to grade a pattern up two sizes. Kathleen demonstrates how to grade a pants pattern up by two sizes, including moving the crotch point, adjusting darts and marking pocket notches. Then learn how to handle details such as a pocket or waistband.

Grading a Single-Size Pattern
4 . Episode: Grading a Single-Size Pattern
25min

A single-size pattern lacks extra grading lines to guide you, but you can calculate your own with Kathleen's easy-to-follow grade rule chart. Work along with Kathleen using small-scale pattern pieces for a sleeveless top (included in your class materials) to grade down one size while maintaining the exact proportions.

Single-Size Pattern: Grading Up
5 . Episode: Single-Size Pattern: Grading Up
33min

Take a single-size skirt pattern and grade it up two sizes using the cut-and-spread method. Kathleen shows you how to use the same principles from previous lessons to add width and length evenly across a pattern.

Single-Size Pattern: The Details
6 . Episode: Single-Size Pattern: The Details
36min

Having mastered the skills to grade the larger pieces of a single-size pattern up or down, you're now ready to dive into details such as the bust, torso and shoulder darts of a blouse. Learn how to reposition and resize your darts, adjust seams and notches, and grade facings and collar pieces to match your graded pattern.

Single-Size Pattern: Sleeve
7 . Episode: Single-Size Pattern: Sleeve
15min

Your final single-size grading challenge is getting the sleeves correctly proportioned and notched for easing into the bodice. Kathleen walks you through the steps and shows you how to "walk" your seams and double-check your work. Finally, you'll learn how to stack your graded patterns for a final inspection just as professional pattern makers do!

About the Teacher

Kathleen Cheetham
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Suzy Furrer
Suzy Furrer
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Joi Mahon
Joi Mahon
Designer Joi Mahon shows how to measure yourself and alter a pattern before you sew a stitch. Save time and fabric by getting your fitting done first!
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Linda Lee
Linda Lee
Find your fit without a partner! Learn how to take your own measurements, make basic pattern adjustments and create fitting muslins for personalized garments.
1. Episode: Introduction to Grading 16min
2. Episode: Multi-Size Pattern: Grading Down 31min
3. Episode: Multi-Size Pattern: Grading Up 22min
4. Episode: Grading a Single-Size Pattern 25min
5. Episode: Single-Size Pattern: Grading Up 33min
6. Episode: Single-Size Pattern: The Details 36min
7. Episode: Single-Size Pattern: Sleeve 15min

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Introduction to Grading
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Create Any Size: Pattern Grading for Sewers

Kathleen Cheetham

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Create Any Size: Pattern Grading for Sewers