Straight line quilting is a simple and effective way to finish your quilts. You can do it on a home machine, and you only have to worry about moving your quilt in one direction. Play with the width between your lines of stitching for a denser or more airy effect.
So you've decided to frame your finished embroidery in a hoop — good choice! Your artwork will be easy to hang, and easy to frame. Inexpensive bamboo hoops work great for framing, but you can use any hoop you like.
The chain stitch is one of the most basic building blocks of crochet. You can use it as a starting or foundation chain and work stitches into it, or chain between stitches as part of a larger stitch pattern.
Double crochet is one of the basic crochet stitches, and you'll use it frequently both by itself and as part of other stitch patterns. Just keep track of how many yarn overs you're making and when you're pulling loops through, and you'll be all set.
The make one (M1) increase is a pretty common increase in knitting — it increases one stitch by working into the row below. The increase can either slant to the left (M1L), as we'll demonstrate here, or to the right (M1R).
The centered double decrease (cdd) does just what the name says — you start with three stitches and decrease down to one. The resulting stitch is centered, which means it doesn't lean to the right or the left. You may also see this stitch referred to as s2kp, or slip 2, knit, pass — this is just another way to describe the same stitch!
Using pins will help you keep your fabric in place until you've had a chance to actually sew it together. Remember, never sew over your pins — for safety, you should always remove them as you get to them.
Chain piecing is fast, saves thread and can lead to more accurate piecing. By feeding one pair of fabric directly after the next, and piecing in batches rather than pressing after each seam, you’ll find your quilts come together in a flash.
The make one (M1) increase is a pretty common increase in knitting — it increases one stitch by working into the row below. The increase can either slant to the right (M1R), as we'll demonstrate here, or to the left (M1L).
Pretty much any pattern you knit will tell you to "weave in your ends." But what does that even mean?! Securing your ends on the wrong side of the fabric without knotting them is a crucial step, but don't let it stress you out. Here's our go-to method.
Half-square triangles, or HSTs, are fundamental quilt units used in many classic block designs, from the pinwheel to the friendship star. Learn to make them two-at-a-time for double the fun in half the time.
As a newbie quilter, nine-patch blocks are one of the first you'll learn to make. It's easy to pull together, and learning this technique will give you a design that's versatile, traditional and trendy all at the same time.
Fact: the nicer you are to your sewing machine, the better it will behave. And if you want it to stay in tip-top shape, it's important to give it a good cleaning. Here's what you should be doing about every eight hours of use.
Pressing seams helps keep your quilt top flat for easier quilting. While you'll use a bunch of different methods throughout the quilting process, this one helps control bulk when a lot of them intersect.
Stitch in the ditch is a beginner-friendly technique for anyone just learning how to quilt. And when we say easy, we mean it: All you do is sew along the seam lines that join your quilt blocks — aka the ditch — so you have a clear (and usually straight) path to stitch! Bonus: stitching in the ditch adds extra stability to your quilt, it can be done before you add decorative quilting, or you can leave it as a design all its own. Hello, triple threat!
Mattress stitch is our go-to for vertical seams — it's invisible, and works kind of like a magic zipper. Just thread your needle through each edge, then tighten up your thread and watch that seam disappear.